Golden Kailash

First Ray Of Sun On Mt. Kailash

Mt Kailash

View from Darchen

Ganesh Parvat

On the way to Saga from Nyalam and Shi-Sha-Bhama-Himalayan Range

Mt. Kailash Reflection

Mansarovar dt.21st May 2013 photo by Amit Kulkarni

Thursday 27 February 2014

Janakpurdham...The land of Sita Mata.

Janki Mandir

Jai Siya Ram!
If you really mean it, its time to visit Siya Mata’s town.
Welcome to Janakpurdham, Nepal.

Situated in the contiguous terai region of Nepal, it is just 20 kms from the borders of India with Jaynagar being on the Indian side. Part of the Dhanusa District with a population of 8 lakhs, the majority here are the madhesis whose origin can be traced to the Indian states of Uttar Pradesh and Bihar. The predominant language is these parts is Maithili, an officially recognized language even in India!

Most ancient texts mention it as Mithila. Janakpur it was called after the King Janaka, father of Janaki ie., Sita Mata. Most people think this was the place where Sita was born which may not be correct as King Janaka was not Sita Mata’s biological father. She was apparently found in a furrow in a field by a farmer who brought the infant Sita to Janaka’s court. The King, magnanimous that he was, brought up this abandoned little soul like his own daughter. The rest, as we all are aware, is a mix of mythology and history.

Talking about history, the place finds reference from the Rig Veda to the Ramayana. Besides Hindus, this town may be of interest to Buddhists and Jains as well since it is mentioned that Gautama Buddha and and Vardamana Mahavira, the 24th and final Tirthankara has lived here.

With so much religion and mythology, it is but natural that visitors to this small town have gone on record saying that there is this unmistakable deep, deep sense of devotion in the air which is unlike most other places.

Religious and mythological significance means a perennial flow of the faithful making it an important contributor to the region’s development with Janakpurdham having its own airport and railway station, the latter being the only one in Nepal!

As tourists with a leaning towards religion and history, the places mentioned below may be immensely interesting to you. Despite its lineage and profound history, it seem a place frequented mostly by the devout. Tour operators in Pune despite being in numbers, prefer to offer packages to more exotic places round the globe. It is then left to operators like Raghukul Holidays of Pune to cater to their clients’ requirements, which we understand they do with utmost care and caution, given their experience and sense of purpose.
Janki Mandir
It is quite obvious that the most important place in Janakpur shall be a temple dedicated to Sita Mata. And given her status in Hindu Mythology, equally obvious is that it WILL be GRAND. GRANDEUR with ELEGANCE is what comes across at first sight. And what surprises most is that it is built in a Mughal style of those days ie 1912. A two-storied structure with its white marble arches, domes, turrets and screens, it is a profusion of marble.   

You find women in plenty here draped in their best. Evenings are the most electric as the place gets lit up and people arrive in droves.

 Ram Mandir
The second most obvious place would be a Ram Mandir which is close by. It is the oldest of temples here having been built in 1882. The architecture is in the classic oriental pagoda style. Nearby this temple is the Dhanush Sagar, a ritual bathing tank, the largest in Janakpur.
Ram Bibah Mandir
A third rather obvious place and part of the Janaki Mandir, is this place where apparently Ram and Sita got married. It has life-sized statuses of Ram and Sita, decorated and kept in rather modern style.
Ponds and tanks
Janakpur has a profusion on small ponds, +100 at last count, each with a story of its own. The more famous ones are the Dhanush Sagar, Bihar Kunda and Ratan Saga Kunda related to Rama.  Parashuram kunda is one where Maharishi Parshuram bathed to quell his anger after his confrontation with Ram over the breaking of the sacred bow of Shiva.
Jaleshwar
 Nearing the Indian border is Jaleshwar, a temple dedicated to Shiva, it is famous for the lingam being immersed in a pond situated 20 feet below ground level. In addition, there are two large ponds on either side of the temple.
Dhanushdham
A place of some archaeological importance, it is 18 km towards the north-east of Janakpurdham. Apparently the broken remains of the divine Shiva bow fell after Ram broke it to obtain Sita's hand in marriage. Fossilized fragment of the broken piece is said to be present to this day. Every Sunday in the month of Magh (January/ February), a Makar Mela (fair) is held here- an unbroken tradition since Vedic times.

Coming back to modern times, Janakpur also has a Women’s Development Centre situated in the village of Kuwah where local women have come together to produce paper paintings, papier-mâché boxes and mirrors, screen-printed fabrics and hand-thrown ceramics. You can buy beautiful, richly coloured artifacts at reasonable prices from these artisans.

You may also visit villages at the fringes of Janakpur where time still seems to have stood still with life in every sense continues in the same languid pace it did centuries back. The houses even sport old Maithili style wall-frescos which is sure to take you back in time!

Phew, this is some list then. But thankfully Janakpur is small by most Indian standards and means of transport plenty. Same goes for accommodation and food.


If reading this, you make up your mind, wish you all the best. May the Goddess light your path!

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Please feel free to post your comments below.
About Author :- Amit Kulkarni is the founder of Raghukul Holidays.

Panache of Pokhara !!!

Pokhara Valley

Kathmandu equates Nepal. Quite a few times, inadvertently one gets interchanged with the other.
Ever heard of Pokhara?

No?

Well, in which case it is time to update you on this beautiful place 200 kilometers from Kathmandu to its west which till the 60s did not even have an approach road and the only way was on foot!!

Smaller than Kathmandu in size, it more than makes up with some splendid ambiance and sceneries all around minus the traditional trappings of a metropolis. Look up from any part of this tiny province and the only thing you see are the snow-capped mountains against a clear blue sky.

Talking of blue skies, when was the last time you looked-up and saw this wonder? Pune has grown commercially which shows in its smog-filled skyline. With schools and colleges nearing their summer holidays and winters saying good-bye, isn’t it time to look for a quite place in a quiet corner where the only thing you see is serenity, the only thing you feel is the cool breeze from the mountains and the only thing you hear are the birds and bees (and very occasional humans!)? Fly-by-night tour operators with limited experience can at best take you some distance from Pune. If you want the real fun, go to the seasoned ones like Raghukul Holidays where you can afford to be carelessly enjoy such places.

Coming back to our original topic, what does Pokhara have? If natural surroundings interests you, plenty! And all this due to two features, the mountains and a river!  Well ….read on…..
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Beautiful Pokhara

     Pokhara is just 30 kms from the base of three mighty mountains,  DhaulagiriAnnapurna I and Manaslu which appear in one line like a fish’e tail (also called Machhapuchhre by the locals). If you are the regular walking and trekking kinds, this can be your starting point for quite a few worthy treks. The approach to Pokhara itself is quite a challenge! Within 30 km, the elevation rises from 1,000 m to over 7,500 m! Beat that!?!

It is situated in the valley of the Seti Gandaki river. Gandaki as you might know, is the river which gives us the “shaligram”. A peculiar feature of this river is that it is not wide like normal rivers in the plain but cuts deep gorges into the earth in and around Pokhara with one point being as low as 20 meters!


    Due to the soft subsoil, caves under the earth are another interesting feature with notable ones being the Gupteshor Gupha and the Mahendra Gupha which are natural dwellings for bats and are filled with stalagmites. The first one is approx 3 kms long! The second one is of lime stone. Quite a few of these caves are well hidden behind foliage or other features like in the case of the Davi’s fall, where a man enjoying a dip in the waterfall was sucked into one of the caves underground and found his way 50 meters ahead!

     Due to Pokhara’s unique positioning, it gets the highest rainfall in Nepal all of which aid in creating water bodies at regular intervals like Phewa, Begnas and Rupa lakes. These are not very large by most standards but offer immense serenity and natural beauty. You can indulge in boating, fishing etc., etc. for which equipments are available at very nominal charges at the lake sides. The view of the mountains is simply breath-taking!

     Barahi Temple: Almost in the middle of Phewa lake, the two  storied pagoda is dedicated to the boar manifestation of Ajima, who represents the female force "Shakti". Animal sacrifice being the norm in Nepal, Saturdays see devotees carrying male animals and fowl to be sacrificed to the deity.

    Museums: For its size, Pokhara surprises you with two museums being   
o The Pokhara Museum which deals with the ethnicity of western Nepal featuring groups such asthe Gurungs, Thakalis and the Tharus, and

o The Annapurna Museum, managed by the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) which displays a collection of the local birds, models of wildlife as well as samples of various precious and semi-precious stones and volcanic rocks.

Pokhara helps you unwind you so much, it takes a looong time to wind yourself back.


Need we say more? 

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Please feel free to post your comments below.
About Author :- Amit Kulkarni is the founder of Raghukul Holidays.

Tuesday 25 February 2014

What do you do in Kathmandu? Pray to the spirits and enjoy !!!

Durbar Square


The first thought conjuring in your mind for the word “Nepal”?

For most people, it would include nice weather, simple people, temples, temples and more temples. For the not-so-religious, happy-go-lucky, there are always the casinos and bars!!!!

On a serious note, this is one place which has more temples than most places put together. Given below is a brief of some of these. You must remember that Nepal too was an important contributor to Buddhism. This is brought out by the fact that some of the most important religious places here are Buddhist.

Durbar Square

This is the heart of Kathmandu around which are the Royal Palace, pagodas, courtyards, and temples including the one dedicated to Kumari, the Living Goddess. Seeing it today, it would be difficult to imagine the scale of destruction caused by the earthquake of 1934 when the entire area was turned into piles of rubble and had to be built afresh.

Durban Square further consists of 3 squares, namely the Kasthamandap, a shrine entirely in wood and that too from a single saal tree! It is dedicated to Gorakhnath. The other two are the Ashok Binayak temple, also known as the Maru Ganesh and Maru Tole.

The Kumari Temple

A temple dedicated to the living Goddess, a supposed living reincarnation of Parvati. The lineage of most girls can be traced to the Newar Sakya clan of gold and silversmiths and are initiated into the role at the age of 4 or 5.

Seen only during religious festivities, she is carried through the streets in a palanquin and walks on the cloth, as her feet must not touch the ground. The 18th century temple is built in the style of Buddhist monasteries which feature stucco facade with a number of intricately carved windows. The lintels are carved with laughing skulls while deities, doves and peacocks decorate the balcony windows.

Swayambhunath

Built 2000 years ago, it became an important centre for Buddhist and was closely associated with Lhasa before being ransacked by the troops of the Bengal Sultan in the 14 century AD. Rebuilt by Pratap Malla in the 17th century at the same spot, it has remained ever since. It measures 20 m in diameter and 10 m in height and is on a hillock which can be reached by climbing 400 steps. The all-pervasive “Eyes of the Buddha” adorn it with a third eye representing wisdom. The stupa is surrounded by prayer wheels turned by the faithful while walking clockwise.

Bodhnath

Built by the Lichchavi King, Mana Dev in the fifth century AD, it is situated 8 kms north-east of Kathmandu and is Nepal’s largest stupa rising to 36 meters from its base.

Once the ancient trade route between Kathmandu and Lhasa, it is believed that this stupa contains the bones of Kashyapa Buddha  who preceded Gautama Buddha. The hemispherical dome is painted with the all-seeing eyes of the Lord. The base of the stupa consists of hundreds of prayer which apparently transit messages to the heavens every time they are turned. Near the Stupa is a Buddhist monastery where one can see Tibetan monks hard at study.

Budhanilkantha Temple

Situated 10 kms north of Kathmandu, the main attraction of the temple is the world’s largest statue of the Vishnu reclining on a bed of snakes in a pond. The creator’s identity is not known though it is said to belong to the 8 century AD.

According to legends, it was accidentally unearthed by a farmer and that the Lord apparently sleeps for four months of the year and the festival of Budhanilkantha is celebrated in the month of November when he wakes up.

Pashupatinath Temple

Situated very near the Kathmandu Intl Airport, it is one of Nepal’s most famous shrines. Dedicated to Lord Shiva in his mild form literally meaning the Lord of the beings, the temple is situated on the banks of the Bhagmati River. Build in the classical pagoda style of the 17th century it has brass and gilt plated gateways with ornate carvings all over. A black, four-headed image of Pashupatinath is inside the temple. Foreigners and non-Hindus are not allowed inside the shrine.

Dakshinkali Temple

Dedicated to Goddess Kali, the temple is about half an hour’s drive from Kathmandu. Locals whose wishes come true traditionally sacrifice a goat to appease the deity.

Changu Narayan Temple

Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it is one of the finest and oldest specimens of pagoda architecture with the form of Garuda, Lord Vishnu’s mythical mount standing at the entrance with his palms folded.
If you had enough of spirituality, do visit these places to unwind.

Nagarkot

Situated to the north-east of Kathmandu, it offers a spectacular view which stretches from Dhaulagiri in the west to Kanchanjunga in the east. Dawn brings with it some spectacular sights. So stay the night and enjoy the view next morning.

Daman

Quite similar to Nagarkot, the 8,000 feet pass of Simbhanjyang or Daman is situated along the road leading to the Indian border at 120 km from Kathmandu. Though at a lower altitude, some believe this is the best place to view the Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Everest peaks on a clear day. There is also a viewing tower fitted with long-range binoculars.

Dhulikhel

Yet another place to view the mountains, situated just outside Kathmandu Valley, it is at an altitude of 1500 metres and offers a breathtaking view of the Cho Oyu to in the east to the Himalchuli in the west. Being the district headquarters, it can be reached very easily from Kathmandu.


Tour operators in Pune are always at arms length to take you to these places in Kathmandu. Not all though may be as capable as the real ones like Raghukul Holidays who seem to have made it their life’s mission to take you to the hills. Go to them and see your dream holiday come alive!


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Please feel free to post your comments below.
About Author :- Amit Kulkarni is the founder of Raghukul Holidays.

Sunday 23 February 2014

From Concrete Jungle to the real jungle. Being chanchal at Chitwan!

Chitwan National Park

An ideal get-away from the blistering Indian Summer is heading north into the erstwhile Kingdom of Nepal today “The Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal”.

Geographically land-locked with India bordering on the east, west and south and the TAR region of China on its north, it is predominantly mountainous with 8 of the world’s 10 tallest peaks including the the Mount Everest being here.

The south and east called the Terai form the foothills to the mountainous north and are relatively flat with rivers making it fertile for agricultural production. In this flood plain was established in 1973 the Chitwan National Park, later designated a World Heritage site. It now covers an area of 932 km2 (360 sq mi).
Adjacent to the east is the Parsa Wildlife Reserve and in the south is the Indian Tiger Reserve called Valmiki National Park. The total protected area under the Tiger Conservation Unit (TCU) of Chitwan-Parsa-Valmiki, covers a 3,549 km2 (1,370 sq mi) block of alluvial earth.

Chitwan has a tropical monsoon climate with high humidity all through the year with rains starting in mid June and easing off in late September. The typical vegetation consists predominantly of Sal trees.  Rosewood is also to be seen here.

It is home for close to 700 species of wildlife and a not yet fully surveyed number of butterfly, moth and insect species. Apart from King Cobra and Rock python, 17 other species of snakes, starred tortoise and monitor lizards are seen here. Also seen in the rivers & lakes close-by are 113 recorded species of fish and mugger crocodiles. If you are lucky enough, you may catch site of a gharials  in the Narayani River.

Also occupying pride of place are 43 species of mammals of whom the Bengal Tiger is the “King”. The habitat is one of the best in the world for tigers. Their population has seen ups and downs thanks to poaching. Leopards are also most prevalent at the peripheries. Indian Rhinoceros, Elephants and wild buffaloes called Gaurs and wild boards also occupy this region.

How do you get to this place?

For most Indians the best approach to Nepal is by road through 2-3 land borders at Birgunj-Raxaul, Kakarbhitta-Naxal Bari, Sonauli-Siddharthanagar (Bhairawa) and Nepal gunj-Rupaidiha.

You may alternatively go by air from Mumbai to Kathmandu and catch an overnight bus to Chitwan.

As regards Chitwan National Park, the best way about is to get to Gorakhpur town, take a bus/ taxi/ jeep to Sunauli border town, clear all customs formalities and cross over to Siddharthanagar also called locally as Bhairawa.  From Bhairawa one travels further 160 kms to Sauraha, a town adjacent to the Chitwan National Park and serves as an accommodation hub for travelers. It has decent places to stay, eat and rest. Well, if you attach yourselves with seasoned tour operators in Pune who additionally are holiday makers like Raghukul Holidays, you leave Pune blindfold and open your eyes only in Chitwan National Park. The rest being mundane matters is taken care of by their experienced and courteous staff.

At Chitwan, tourists can indulge in the following activities:
-     The elephant back ride. A great way to visit a thick forest as the elephant moves around with ease and you to go really closer to the animals with them not feeling disturbed in any way.

-     The jeep safari. A 4-5 hours drive through pre- defined paths through the jungle. It is not as interesting as the former due to the presence of tall elephant grass which are best negotiated by, elephants.

-  Visit the crocodile breeding centre: Chitwan in its heyday had one of the best croc population including the famed “gharials” but rampant poaching has brought down their numbers drastically. Since they don’t breed too well in captivity, the best way was to have a place with the feel of the wild.

-   In 2008, a Vulture breeding centre was set-up to breed each of the two Gyps vultures species now critically endangered in Nepal.

-  Elephant breeding centre: A world exclusive with recorded instances of twins which is extremely rare. The elephants here are not for show but are put to good use for visitors to go around as also the security to hunt down poachers. And what are they fed on?? Elephantine momos!! Yes rice chunks wrapped in grass and leaves. They even practice for the annual elephant football match and elephant races which are done for tourists.

-     Boating on the river in dug-out canoes. A good way to see the marine life of the river which may include the customary fish and toads and all. The surprise package are the gharials and crocodiles! And the once-in-a-while encounter with larger animals who come near the river shore to drink water

-     A jungle walk which, if you are lucky may end-up with your seeing a tiger or a leapord or any other wild animal at very close quarters.


Raring to go? And why not? Tour operators in Pune are waiting to fulfill your wish! Before the kinds and wife get after you, get after parties like Raghukul to take you to a kool place! 

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Please feel free to post your comments below.
About Author :- Amit Kulkarni is the founder of Raghukul Holidays.